It sounds like a daunting task to displace a broken fence post but it is never as difficult as it can seem. It will take a bit of elbow grease and a few simple tools you probably curently have in the shed or garage. Where do you start? First you need to gauge the project and the damage. Did the post rot and just break or was it sheered off due with a nasty weather conditions. Will there be still a remaining stump or could it be broken off at the floor or concrete level? Do not hesitate, the project is moderately difficult and should only take about 1 to 2 hours of your own time to complete and your fence will be good as new.
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Time Required: Approximately 1 to 2 Hours
Required Tools
- Shovel
- Pry Bar
- Level
- 1 Replacement Post - Typically 4" x 4" x 8'Cedar or Treated Lumber
- 1 - 80 Pound Bag of Quickrete Concrete Mix
- 3" Wood Screws (Approximately 12 Screws)
Optional Tools
- Auger or Clam Shell Post Hole Digger
- Bag of Gravel
- Hand Saw or Circular Saw
Typically, most fence posts are set into the floor using concrete but others are installed using packed dirt in the fence post hole fence repair. If you don't see concrete at the floor level, take a typical shovel and dig down a few inches close to the broken post location and see in the event that you hit concrete. Most fence posts are set in concrete and for probably the most part a standard post hole is approximately eight (8") to twelve (12") inches in diameter and most are about twenty-four (24") inches deep.
You will find different schools of thought when it comes to removing an existing post. Some individuals prefer the smash and grab technique that will be simply using a hammer and chisel or pry bar to break the concrete into small pieces and pull them out from the existing hole one by one. The technique works but will be a lot of work and it will take between one (1) and two (2) hours of labor to extract the concrete from the hole. It is fine when you yourself have an individual post to displace but when you can find multiple, the job involved is very tedious and tiring and you can find better ways.
The technique I favor would be to take a long, skinny bladed shovel and seek out the dirt just sideways of the concrete exposing the side of the concrete block. Remember to pile the dirt near the hole whilst the dirt you remove will be used to re-pack the hole when the post and concrete block is removed from the ground. From the edge of the concrete, seek out about six (6") to eight (8") inches and down twenty-four (24") inches. This allows for a wallet as wide whilst the concrete block. If your piece or stump from the present post is still in place, you need to use it and start moving the concrete block back and forth utilising the new pocket space you merely created. Once it is loose, you ought to be able to make use of your shovel or pry bar as a lever and lift the concrete block from the hole. Be cautious and ensure you lift along with your legs whilst the concrete block can weigh as much as eighty (80) pounds. If the present post or post stump is no more mounted on the concrete, you ought to be able to employ a pry bar as well as your shovel to go the present concrete block back and forth in a similar manner loosening it from its original placement. Once, the block is movable, use the same process as mentioned above but please be careful to make use of proper lifting techniques when removing the concrete. A doctors visit is not prescribed in this project.
After the block is removed, use the dirt you removed from the excavation to fill in the six (6") to eight (8") inches you originally dug out. Make sure to pack the dirt solidly as it can provide the lateral support for the new post when it's in position. The concrete you utilize whenever you set the new post can provide plenty of support as well as attaching the present fence structure but the greater you pack the dirt, the greater the result. You ought to be left with a standard hole approximately twenty-four (24") inches deep and approximately eight (8") to twelve (12") inches wide.
From here, you ought to take your clam digger or post hole digger or if you don't have one, just use your shovel and seek out approximately two (2") inches at the end of the hole. Then add loose gravel in those two (2") inches for drainage to keep water far from the bottom of the post. If you don't have or did not purchase a case of gravel whenever you purchased your replacement post and concrete, do not worry. The concrete has gravel inside it and works nevertheless the gravel does make the drainage more efficient. Once you've the bottom in place, it is time to put in the replacement post.
Grab your replacement post and center it in the hole. When you yourself have a helper, have them support the post and be sure that it lines up correctly with the fence and the old post you merely removed. Once you've it in the right position, open an eighty (80) pound bag of Quickrete concrete and pour it dry in to the hole. Be sure you are wearing eye protection and to cover orally so you don't inhale the concrete dust that typically spews out from the hole as you pour in the mixture. Pour most of the contents in to the hole. Grab your garden hose or even a bucket of water and start pouring water in to the hole and ensure that you pour around the new post in a circular pattern to ensure you get the complete top layer of the concrete wet. The water will quickly bubble as it starts seeping to the bottom. Continue to add water until it pools a bit. It will absorb through the mix. Now, take your pry bar or a bit of rebar or perhaps a sturdy stick and start poking the concrete mixture to greatly help have the water to flow down seriously to the bottom as well as remove the air bubbles that form. It's OK if the water pools a bit but don't make the mixture too wet as it will take longer to set.
Now take your level and be sure that the post is still in its upright vertical position. It is effective in the event that you check into multiple sides and ensure the bubble on the particular level is at the center and involving the marks. After the post is level, use items of wood to make a stand of sorts at the end to keep the post from moving while the concrete sets up overnight. The concrete begins setting and depending on the climate should get ready 24 hours later to re-hang the fence pieces. If the post moves, wiggle it in to the vertical position and then making use of your stick or pry bar, move the concrete mix around so it touches the post on all sides in the floor without gaps. If gaps form, you may need to add a bit of additional water to make the mixture more liquid. Any pooled water will be absorbed in to the concrete and surrounding dirt and also evaporate whilst the concrete sets.
The following day, you ought to be in a position to re-affix the fence to the post and it ought to be good as new. Before you attach the old fence pieces, you ought to check the height of the fence post in comparison to one other posts in your fence line. Depending on the rest of your fence, you might want to employ a hand or electric saw to cut the new post to fit one other posts on your fence. If the post does not need to be cut, then you can certainly attach the old fence pieces to the new post. Make sure to use screws whenever you attach the fence it back into the new post to make certain a far more stable connection than nails which can pull out in windy or bad weather conditions with time causing integrity issues.
The overall project is a moderate or medium difficulty project and should take approximately sixty (60) to ninety (90) minutes to complete.
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